The Magazine
The Ribeira Sacra, closely read.
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6 MIN
The People Who Keep the Paths
In Nogueira de Ramuín, four neighbours reopened by hand the roads the mountain was swallowing. Ten years on, the work stops. For now.
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6 MIN
Augardente: The Winter After the Wine
Every autumn the presses leave a heap of wet skins in the yard. What Galicia did with it through the winter never made the official table.
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6 MIN
Quiroga: Keep Going East, Then Stay
A guide to Quiroga: too much within a short radius for one day, a mural route through the town, and the case for staying at the eastern end.
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6 MIN
The Winter Way: The Road That Was Already There
An Italian pilgrim in 1717 called the Winter Way the direct road to Santiago. It followed a Roman gold route, 100 km of it in Ribeira Sacra.
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6 MIN
Gundivós: The Village That Traded Clay for a Future
Once famed for its black pottery, Gundivós is reinventing itself around art, teaching and hospitality in Sober, heart of Ribeira Sacra.
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6 MIN
The Fervenzas of Quiroga: Cold Water, Warm East
A 31 km mountain drive to five fervenzas above Quiroga, in the Courel geopark: cold pools to swim, a 34-meter drop, and when to skip dry ones.
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6 MIN
The Grandson of Ribeiraos: Roberto Regal and Enonatur
Roberto Regal, grandson of four ribeiraos, makes wine as a bridge between people — and a defence of the Ribeira Sacra he was raised in.
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6 MIN
The Stones They Carried Uphill
When the Miño dams drowned the valleys in the 1950s, three Romanesque churches were dismantled, numbered and rebuilt on higher ground.
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6 MIN
The Sweet Route: Chestnuts, Honey and Bear Walls
A 10 km loop near A Pobra do Brollón through chestnut groves, stone bee-walls and an Iron Age hillfort on the Ribeira Sacra’s eastern rim.
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6 MIN
The Vineyard Stopped Being Money
Two collapsing harvests, a subsidy reaching two in five growers, and terraces now let as cabins: Ribeira Sacra’s wine numbers, read straight.