The Magazine
The Ribeira Sacra, closely read.
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5 MIN
Music for the Oaks: The Goat Fair at Merlán
The Feira das Cabras in Merlán, Chantada, is no longer held. Pablo, who ran it for a decade, walks us round the empty pens and the accounts.
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5 MIN
Camiño Vello de Aldosende: The Old Road Is the New One
An 11 km linear hike on the PR-G 249: the 1960s path down the Bacelo gorge, then along the Miño past San Facundo to a view over Portomarín.
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5 MIN
The Vendimia That Has to Fit in One Day
One day, six pairs of blunt shears and 1,200 kilos above Ponte Mourulle: the family grape harvest behind a year of house wine in Taboada.
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5 MIN
Terra de Caldelas: The Name Before the Territory
The Ribeira Sacra took its name from an oak wood in Terra de Caldelas, not a river. Our guide to Montederramo and Castro Caldelas, Ourense.
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5 MIN
Bica de Trives: The Cake a Mountain Town Could Afford
Butter, sugar and cinnamon in a chestnut-and-rye comarca: the bica belongs to an aristocratic A Pobra de Trives of the past, and outlived it.
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5 MIN
Better Than the Next Parish
For centuries each parish here did what its ground allowed, and did it better than its neighbours. Then the best trade left for Havana.
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5 MIN
Pulpo á Feira: Nothing Local, Nothing Better
The octopus is Atlantic, the oil Andalusian, the paprika American. In pulpo á feira, the only thing Galicia ever supplied was the day.
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5 MIN
Twenty-six Seconds
Monte do Faro: a Starlight-certified summit inside a wind farm, and twenty-six seconds of total eclipse on the evening of 12 August.
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5 MIN
Everything Has a Name, Nothing Has an Address
2,843 named places, 24 people each, 284 of them empty: why the toponyms of Ribeira Sacra were never meant to tell a stranger where to go.
