The Magazine - feelSacra

7 MIN

Terra de Caldelas: The Name Before the Territory

The Ribeira Sacra took its name from an oak wood in Terra de Caldelas, not a river. Our guide to Montederramo and Castro Caldelas, Ourense.

7 MIN

Butter, sugar and cinnamon in a chestnut-and-rye comarca: the bica belongs to an aristocratic A Pobra de Trives of the past, and outlived it.

7 MIN

For centuries each parish here did what its ground allowed, and did it better than its neighbours. Then the best trade left for Havana.

7 MIN

The octopus is Atlantic, the oil Andalusian, the paprika American. In pulpo á feira, the only thing Galicia ever supplied was the day.

7 MIN

Monte do Faro: a Starlight-certified summit inside a wind farm, and twenty-six seconds of total eclipse on the evening of 12 August.

7 MIN

2,843 named places, 24 people each, 284 of them empty: why the toponyms of Ribeira Sacra were never meant to tell a stranger where to go.

7 MIN

Raw goat’s cheese and a dead twelfth-century hamlet: José Luis Pombar left tech for the hills where Santo Estevo’s monks grazed goats.

7 MIN

In Nogueira de Ramuín, four neighbours reopened by hand the roads the mountain was swallowing. Ten years on, the work stops. For now.

7 MIN

Every autumn the presses leave a heap of wet skins in the yard. What Galicia did with it through the winter never made the official table.

7 MIN

A guide to Quiroga: too much within a short radius for one day, a mural route through the town, and the case for staying at the eastern end.